Galle and the southern beaches
Galle is a living time capsule, a melting pot of colonial grandeur and bohemian chic. Its massive fortified walls protectively enclose densely-packed streets lined with British and Dutch colonial buildings.
The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the largest fortified colonial city in Asia. But in truth, it’s not that big. Staying at one of the boutique hotels in Galle, you can easily walk to most places you want to visit and, take our word for it, a walk around the city ramparts at sunset is a mesmerising must.
And if the sound of willow on leather has a special place in your heart, Galle can justifiably claim to have the most spectacular test cricket ground in the world.
Close by your luxury hotel in Galle there are hidden rooftop restaurants serving delicious local food, elegant bars with extensive wine lists, creative boutiques and treasure-trove antique shops. And we’ve whiled away many a sun-drenched afternoon enjoying freshly-caught chili prawns and a cold glass of chardonnay (well, even the most dedicated explorer has to park the 4×4 and unwind occasionally!).
If you only do three things in Galle …
- Walk hand-in-hand along the ramparts at sunset. The setting is spectacular and romance will flourish (take our word for it).
- Enjoy a walking tour with our favourite resident historian for a high hearted but detailed overview of the history of Galle and modern day life within the walls of the fort.
- Explore the charming fair-trade market in Magistrates Square on a Saturday. You’ll find all kinds of local produce and knick-knacks.
Hit the beach!
The southern beaches to the east of Galle are amongst the best in Sri Lanka. Unawatuna, Thalpe and Koggala are the main areas, with a few smaller bays in between. Although the sea is generally not exactly placid, there are a few lagoons protected by reefs which make swimming safe. And if you stick to the beach, you will find the sand to be heavenly and the views to die for.
Throw in some excellent beach hotels in Galle that sit close by beachside restaurants and bars, and you have a vibrant and laid-back beach scene which fortunately lacks the hawkers and hassle that can be part of other Sri Lankan beach areas.
Eating and drinking
Galle has an eclectic mix of restaurants and bars. Wonderful, honest Sri Lankan food is plentiful, as well as some more mainstream restaurants serving Western food. Combined with the recent opening of the old Dutch Hospital where some of Colombo’s best restaurants have set up shop, you’ll find that it’s all rather cosmopolitan. You’ll find anything from traditional Sri Lanka roti and dahl to succulent lamb imported from New Zealand. And it can be washed down with superb fresh fruit juices, local Lion beer, New World wines (European wines are fairly rare) or expertly mixed arrack cocktails. (Arrack is a spirit widespread in South-East Asia, usually distilled from coconuts in Sri Lanka.)
And by the way, do not believe a word of the local legend that unlike a hangover, an arrack-over is actually good for you. We’ve been there and it certainly doesn’t feel that way!
Galle is a large fishing town and we’ve enjoyed some of the best seafood in Sri Lanka both inside the city walls and with the sand between our toes on some of the surrounding beaches (most are a 15-minute taxi or tuk-tuk ride). It’s worth the cheap ride. The local food is superb and very reasonably priced.
And if you fancy a change from rice and curry, the best pizza is found in a beachside restaurant which sports its own wood-fired oven.
If you are after hard-core partying, you’ve probably come to the wrong place. But if you want to see a bit of laid-back life, while sipping a few cocktails in style, the beaches to the east of Galle offer the perfect locations.
Finally, there is a small handful of upmarket bars and restaurants in Galle which make for a fun evening should you tire of your hotel’s familiar surroundings.
Out and about
We would never suggest going to Galle and doing nothing. There’s a bounty of other places in Sri Lanka for blissful idleness. Galle is about discovery and being inquisitive in the old fort. The new city, home to approx. 100,000 people, is modern and unremarkable. That said, the fish market along the seafront outside the old city walls is well worth a visit. We are always staggered at the variety on offer.
Inside the old city, there are intriguing museums, churches and landmarks. In fact, there is so much to do and see in the old fort, flip-flop rub is a serious danger. The splendid colonial architecture is the chief hallmark of Galle and there is no shortage of local books and information guides recounting fascinating stories from the past.
For us, probably the most extraordinary experience in Galle was seeing the law courts in full swing on weekdays. The municipal courts are still located on Magistrates Square. The scene – the square is buzzing with people – is a genuine part of local life and captivating in its very authenticity.
Galle is a city. There aren’t really any beaches or swimming areas in the immediate vicinity (although you will almost certainly see local children hurling themselves off the city ramparts into the blue sea below). The best long sandy beaches lie about 15 minutes by tuk-tuk to the south-east and getting the sand between your toes is an experience not to miss.
Thoughts on a postcard
High Tea, with finger sandwiches cut perfectly to size and scones with clotted cream and jam from local strawberries, was served on the magnificent colonial verandah. The ramparts of Galle fort for were visible and as we sank into our cane chairs, we wondered how our holiday could get any better.
OUR FAVOURITE PLACESEast Coast / Tangalle / Gal Oya National Park / Yala National Park / Uda Walawe National Park / Tea Country / Jaffna / Cultural Triangle / Kandy / Galle and the southern beaches / Colombo /
Galle and the southern beaches : The map
Our Escapologists only recommend hand-picked, delectable properties we have sampled and savoured ourselves. We judge all our hotels by their excellence, the sheer hedonistic pleasures they have to offer. And we reject a lot that don’t meet our exacting standards.
Some of our selections are classics, with reputations recognised the world over. Others are discoveries: boutique havens where hospitality, relaxation and fine cuisine have been distilled into a rare art form. You’ll find a few options for the budget conscious too, where Yonder’s principles are still to the fore. And for those who just need an airport stopover on their way to paradise, there’s one or two convenience choices, too.
We provide in-depth descriptions of every property, based upon our own experiences there, along with our unique Yonder rating and icons that will give you further insights into what’s on offer. We even tell you the types of clientele you might soon be rubbing shoulders with!
Now that’s choosing a hotel Yonder style!
Here at Yonder we have devised some exciting itineraries that will illustrate just what amazing journeys you could enjoy through Yonder’s exciting far-away destinations.
Of course every one of Yonder’s clients is a unique individual and we only create personalised itineraries that reflect those personal desires and wishes. So your Yonder journey will be as individual as you are. But to help you envisage just what amazing adventures might be possible, we have devised sample itineraries that we are confident will inspire you. You only have to pick up the phone to explore how any one of these ideas might be adapted to create your own perfect journey Yonder.
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Notes In Our Journal
Out with the old and in with the new. A Yonder Escapologist recasts a familiar phrase.